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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1985 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have not encountered for many years. It marked the start of a troubled period for the estate, and the wine feels neutered on the nose with light black cherries, lavender perhaps, but there is a lack of vigour and sense of purpose. The palate is medium-bodied with…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Volnay Les Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot 1er Cru has a nicely detailed bouquet with black cherries, raspberry coulis, wild mint and a touch of dark chocolate emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and modest weight, very nicely balanced with a smooth, coca-tinged finish. It will need 4-5 years to…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Volnay Caillerets “Ancienne Cuvée Carnot” 1er Cru has a more fruit-driven, ample bouquet compared to Benjamin Leroux’s Les Caillerets, featuring splendid red cherry and wild strawberry scents, though maybe it does not quite deliver the same delineation. The palate is well balanced and fleshy, with supple red berry fruit, quite candied in style….

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Vougeot Blanc de Vougeot Le Clos 1er Cru has an attractive bouquet with yellow plum and light jasmine scents unfolding in the glass, certainly with more vigor than the previous vintage. The palate is well-balanced with a rich opening. Very pithy and almost Rhône-like in style, growing peppery towards the finish. I’m not…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru has an open-knit bouquet with attractive red berry fruit, undergrowth and light floral aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with finely spun tannins and exquisite balance, poised and refined with a tender finish. All this without feeling you are being shortchanged in terms of fruit. Superb. Tasted blind at the Burgfest…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Vougeot Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot 1er Cru, a monopole of the domaine, certainly has a better bouquet than other Vougeraie whites this year, offering more precise, mineral-driven yellow stone fruit mixed with yellow flowers. The palate is well balanced with quite a rich and generous opening, counterbalanced by a fine thread of…