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Jura: Nature Hits Hard, but the Wines Fight Back (Sep 2025)

The light to medium-bodied 2019 Côtes du Jura Plein Sud comes in at a modest 12.8% alcohol, offering inviting cranberry, rhubarb and a floral rose water lift. Fresh and juicy, the 2019 carries just enough flavor concentration to remain engaging while maintaining the vibrant acidity that keeps you reaching for another glass. It concludes with…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Selection Pre-Colombière has a rich, generous bouquet of s kirsch, cassis and pressed violet. There is real depth to these aromatics considering that it is a Village Cru. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, and more marine-influenced than the Vigneau, revealing oyster shells on the finish. Excellent.

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Cras 1er Cru has an exquisite Vosne-like bouquet offering rose petals and violets, complementing the vivacious red fruit. Wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. Perhaps a little austere towards the finish, but I suspect that will fill out during the second winter in barrel. A bit of…

2015 Barolo – The Late Releases (Nov 2019)

The 2015 Barolo Liste is surprisingly refined for this site, where Barolos tend to be far denser and more muscular. Iron, smoke, tobacco, scorched earth and grilled herbs give the 2015 its distinctly wild, feral quality that at present overpowers the fruit. The Liste is a solid wine for the year. I would prefer to…

Loire Chenin: Dividing Lines (Oct 2023)

The 2016 La Charpentrie hails from a warmer season, in the vein of 2018 and 2020, so if you want to find out how good ripe Loire Chenin should taste, you can’t go wrong here. It exudes a sense of relaxation and charm, offering less tension and greater richness than in cooler vintages like 2017,…

2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2015 Barolo Riserva Perno Vigna Disa is everything Barolo can be, everything it should be. The bouquet alone is mesmerizing. Coffee, tobacco, spice, menthol, licorice and leather are some of the many aromas and flavors that open with coaxing. This heady, strapping Barolo offers unreal complexity and tons of old-school personality. I would not…