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2015 Barolo – The Late Releases (Nov 2019)

Borgogno’s 2015 Barolo Fossati offers good brightness and energy to match its mid-weight frame. Iron, sweet red fruit, wild flowers and mint give the 2015 an attractive upper register. Most importantly, the 2015 is impeccably balanced, with just enough fruit to stand up to the edgy Fossati tannins. This is very nicely done.

Sancerre 2024: A Test of Endurance (Aug 2025)

The 2023 Les Chailloux has a sense of precision, line and focus from its flinty origins. This has substance, body and length. I love its sense of get up and go. Indeed, it’s all about texture, not aromatics. This does offer delightful pastry flavors on top of ripe citrus notes. While Riffault’s wines don’t typically…

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

Remarkably pretty, the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Fontelontano blossoms in the glass with an array of dusty violets, wild strawberries and wet stone. This is lifted in feel, with silken textures offset by a core of tactile mineral tones, as ripe wild berry fruits and perfumed inner florals cascade across a stream of…

2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett is still slightly reduced and yeasty, but underneath that, chervil- and green apple-scented freshness comes through, fine and bright. The palate is gently sweet and has notions of Turkish apple tea and a little tea tannin, countered by rounded but delicate freshness. The long aftertaste has the merest notion…

Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 2001)

Red-ruby. Big, oaky nose of cassis, crushed blackberry, mocha and vanilla. Silky and supple, but also juicy and penetrating, with firm acids and a faint green aspect. Quite oaky in the middle and on the firm finish. This wine showed increasing fat and texture as it opened in the glass.

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1991 Climens is a very credible wine for the vintage (like Doisy-Daëne). Touches of white mushroom on the nose alongside quince and background petrol-like aromas, it opens nicely in the glass though it never musters much in the way of vigour. The palate is well balanced with fresh tangerine and Clementine notes, moderate length,…