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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1986 Ducru-Beaucaillou has been variable over the years due to the roof taint. This one? Well, it is not offensive, but it is rather innocuous, anonymous for such a great Left Bank vintage, lacking delineation and intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins, simple but balanced with a slightly tart finish. I would…

Veneto: Stunning Landscapes, Stunning Wines (Mar 2014)

Quintarelli’s 2003 Amabile del Cerè is laced with a candied orange peel, crème brulée, savory herbs and sweet spices. Round, soft and inviting, the 2003 presents a gorgeous combination of gently oxidative, burnished notes, but with more than enough freshness to continue to drink beautifully for a number of years. It is a shame these…

The Murakami Wine: Royal Tokaji Essencia 1993-2017 (Mar 2025)

The 2008 Tokaji Essencia, a vintage that I have not previously tasted, contains 469 g/l residual sugar with 13.5 g/l acidity. This has higher alcohol, 4.2%, since the berries fermented a little more compared to other years for some unknown reason. Perhaps in direct juxtaposition against other vintages, the 2008 does not quite deliver the…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(a roughly 50/50 blend of merlot and cabernet franc): Full, dark ruby-red. Cool, aromatic, slightly medicinal nose combines black fruits, coffee and menthol. Then bright and fresh in the middle; less densely packed than any other post-WWII wine in this tasting, but fruity and pliant, with a silky texture. Finishes long, with substantial building tannins…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Cheval Blanc is a wine that I had not encountered for some time, this bottle not poured at the château but at a dinner in London. It’s a decent if unremarkable Saint-Émilion that leans towards the Left Bank on the nose. The Cabernets are more expressive than the Merlot. The palate is balanced…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Deep ruby-red. Currant, blackberry, mocha, violet, sandalwood and tobacco leaf on the perfumed nose. Silky and nicely concentrated, with strong minerality and lively acidity framing the flavors. Not a hugely ripe or opulent Cheval, but understated and classy. Finishes with rather suave tannins and a whiplash of flavor.