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Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017 (Jun 2024)

The 2011 Toscana Sangiovese is an intriguing wine. Upon first tasting it, I was concerned with its somewhat dry tannins, but several hours later, it had opened beautifully. The 2011 is a lighter wine, as is generally true of the Sangioveses made from 2007 through 2012, and yet it has a good overall balance once…

Vinous Table: Four Twenty Five, New York, USA (Sep 2025)

Silky and aromatic with gorgeous balance, the 2009 Toscana Sangiovese is such a sexy wine. It’s very much a mid-weight Sangiovese, without the structure or driving intensity of the best years. However, that structure gives the 2009 a Pinot Noir-like feel that is pure seduction. Floral accents and soft red-toned fruit caress the palate. More…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2018 Extra-Brut Les Beguines is a gorgeous Champagne from Jérôme Prévost. In this release, the Beguines is a bit more ethereal than it can be. There is plenty of Meunier character, with dried orchard fruit, spice and hazelnut flavors that are nicely lifted. This edition is 90% 2018 plus 10% reserve wines, all done…

2014 Barolo: Surprise, Surprise… (Feb 2018)

The 2014 Barolo Tre Tine is nervous and tightly wound, with good precision and a bit more austerity than is the norm. Readers will have to be patient with the 2014, although I suspect the wine will always be a bit aggressive because of the effects of hail. There is good delineation to the bright…

2012 Barolo: Grace Under Pressure (Mar 2016)

The 2012 Barolo Tre Tine is lifted, precise and gracious, with beams of firm supporting tannin that give the wine its energy and sense of proportion. Tasted next to the Brunate, the Tre Tine is distinctly more aromatic, delicate and feminine in style, with plenty of bright red fruit and floral overtones. I also tasted…

2013 Barolo: Sublime Finesse & Elegance (Feb 2017)

The 2013 Barolo Tre Tine is a super-classic, vibrant wine that bristles with energy. Lithe and gracious, but with terrific intensity, the 2013 is also surprisingly accessible for a young Rinaldi Barolo. Perhaps the 2013 will shut down in bottle, but today, it is all polish. Although quite classic in feel, the 2013 is a…