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But Seriously: Beaujolais 2021-2023 (Apr 2024)

The 2022 Fleurie Vieilles Vignes is a wonderful articulation of this appellation. The aromatics seem to glow: luscious red berry fruit laced with orange zest and tangerine, beautifully defined. Likewise, the palate is clearly endowed with sweet ripe red fruit, almost confit-like, yet it delivers exquisite delineation and clarity on the finish. You never quite…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The NV Extra-Brut Les Beguines (base 2016) is a fine choice for drinking today. It, too, has aged quite well. I don’t see the potential for extended development in the cellar, and yet the 2016 is a delight today. Apricot, dried pear, chamomile and sweet floral nuances all build in the glass. Tasted next to…

Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Brilliant purple. Dark fruit, floral and spice qualities on the hugely perfumed, expansive nose, along with suggestions of incense, olive and smoky minerals. Stains the palate with powerful, youthfully concentrated blueberry, cassis, spicecake and violet pastille flavors that are given spine and lift by a core of zesty acidity. Lingers with outstanding tenacity on the…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Brilliant ruby. Intense blackberry and cherry aromas are complicated by suggestions of exotic spices, olive, cracked pepper and pungent flowers. Youthfully chewy, appealingly sweet black and blue fruit flavors deepen and turn spicier with air; a smoky mineral element adds back-end lift and cut. Rounded tannins add subtle grip to an impressively long, floral- and…

Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Inky ruby. Intense blueberry, incense, exotic spice and mineral qualities on the expansive, seductively perfumed nose. Stains the palate with spice-laced black and blue fruit, spicecake, olive and violet pastille flavors that show real power and tension and no excess fat. The floral and mineral notes drive a strikingly long, pure finish given shape by…

Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017 (Jun 2024)

The 2013 Toscana Sangiovese is the first wine Gianfranco Soldera made after a disgruntled former employee nearly destroyed all of the 2007s-2012s. An infant wine, the 2013 is seriously impressive from the very first taste. It offers up a dazzling interplay of Sangiovese fruit, rose petals, lavender, kirsch, hard candy and spice. Powerful yet elegant…