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This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2014 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a very well defined, earthy bouquet but backed up by sufficient red berry fruit. Touches of woodland come through with continued aeration, a touch of autumn bonfire. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin. Quite supple in the mouth for a 2014 with touches of tobacco, black pepper…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(from 80-year-old vines; 80% vendange entier; 50% new oak):Bright, dark red. Black raspberry, violet, musky espresso and game on the nose, lifted by a minty nuance. Sweeter than the Sentiers but with a strong supporting spine of tannins and acids. Starts with black fruits, then shades to tart red berries. Offers lovely intensity without any…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Medium red, not especially saturated. Alluring lift to the aromas of red berries, minerals and rose petal. Densely packed yet weightless, with the wine’s intense rocky character accentuating its youthfully spicy wild berry and floral flavors. Really stunning inner-mouth aromatic character and pungent minerality here. Finishes with outstanding length and perfumed spicy lift. The Georges…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Deep red-ruby. Tight but tangy scents of black fruits, crushed stone, minerals and licorice, plus an exotic suggestion of white stone fruits. Wonderfully sappy, precise and energetic, conveying an impression of density without weight. This silky, refined wine is still a baby but its ripe, granular tannins and finishing juiciness suggest it will be a…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Deep red. Cool, reticent, classic Clos Vougeot scents of black cherry, licorice and herbs are accented by a peppery note. Fairly full and fine-grained but utterly unforthcoming, even impenetrable, in the early going. This very pure but youthfully musclebound wine finishes with hard-edged tannins that will require extended aging. Very difficult to taste, much less…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Palish medium red. Zesty aromas of small red berries and curry powder. Juicy and penetrating in the mouth, conveying a wonderfully light touch to the delicate, detailed flavors of red raspberry, orange zest and exotic spices. Very 2013 in structure: noble more than powerful, but with no shortage of underlying density. Penetrating, energetic wine with…