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Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Dec 2016)

The 2012 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules is another knockout. Here it is the freshness and energy of Pinot Noir that makes the strongest impression. White orchard fruit, flowers, white pepper and mint give the Ursules its distinctly high-toned personality. The interplay between the richness of the Pinot Noir and inherent tension that characterizes all…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2015 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules is fascinating to taste next to the other Pinot Champagnes, all of which are brighter. Here, the weight and gravitas are very much front and center. Red cherry, kirsch, plum, mint and spice all blossom in the glass. The Ursules needs air to shine. A bit of time…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2015 Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée, 100% Pinot Blanc from 50+ year-old vines on limestone, is a wine of explosive power and resonance. In most years, the Bolorée needs a few years in bottle to come together. I imagine that will be the case here as well. Even so, the pedigree is evident. A…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2019 Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine is rich, ample and so expressive. The 2019 captures all of the radiance of the vintage in this open-knit, voluptuous expression. Pear, baked apple, dried flowers, chamomile and spice build into the racy, opulent finish. Don”t miss it. No dosage. Disgorged: 2021.

Cellar Favorite: 2010 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate (Dec 2024)

A wine of mind-blowing complexity, Rinaldi’s 2010 Barolo Brunate is everything Barolo can be—powerful, refined, seductive, intensely aromatic, structured and so incredibly beautiful that words seem inadequate. It opens with soaring notes of rose petal, iron, coffee, mint, white pepper, melted road tar, spice and orange peel. Youthfully tannic and structured, the 2010 has softened…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good medium red. Decadent aromas of raspberry and smoke. Concentrated and liqueur-like, offering lovely sweetness but even more depth and backbone than the Cannubi-S. Lorenzo-Ravera. Harmonious acidity and big, dusty, leathery tannins give this powerful Barolo great aging potential. Rinaldi may bottle the Brunate on its own due to the new law that forbids combining…