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Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The bottle of 1989 Haut-Brion poured in Hong Kong is unquestionably the best I have encountered in recent years. Youthful in hue, it has a breathtaking bouquet with stunning definition, a mixture of shimmering black fruit, crushed stone, black truffle and graphite. The palate is multi-faceted with unerring complexity, yet the freshness, frisson and energy…

Henschke’s Hill of Grace – The Garden of Eden (Apr 2023)

The 2018 Shiraz Hill of Grace is stunning from the get-go, boasting ethereal aromas that immediately draw you in, including mixed spices, damson plum, new leather, five-spice and old earth notes with a gravelly edge. Oak sits comfortably in the background with remarkable all-around composure. The immaculate palate showcases robust flavors and muscular tannins packed…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc has a well-defined bouquet of white peach, apricot and light candle wax aromas and nicely integrated oak. The well-balanced palate leads with quince and orange peel on the entry, revealing a pleasant bitter undertow and fanning out with confidence toward the saline finish. Excellent. Tasted blind at the annual…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc offers quite a bit of upfront intensity and attack, but then loses persistence through the mid-palate and finish, which makes it come across as rather monolithic. I don’t see the focus, tension or energy that are such signatures of the Blanc. Perhaps time in bottle will help to some…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is showing quite a bit of oak on the nose, although this should be subsumed with bottle age. The palate is rounded and rather oaky on the entry and the finish is dominated by the wood. This has shown supremely well in the past and I think it’s…

Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

Bright, pale yellow. Very ripe yet classic Clos aromas of menthol, iodine, silex and wild herbs, with a touch of oyster-shell reduction. Densely packed and fine-grained, with lovely lemony acidity nicely balancing the wine’s sweetness. The whiplash of a finish features citrus and herb notes and a positive tartness that calls for some cellaring. Droin…