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2008 and 2007 White Burgundies (Sep 2009)

Bright, pale yellow. Reserved aromas of yellow peach and rocks. Less supple but more complex than the Vireuils, with a firm spine of acidity giving thrust to the lemony flavor. Still youthfully angular (always the highest in acidity among my wines, says Roulot) but finishes with excellent cut and length. Give this one four or…

Hungary’s 21st-Century Tokajis (Jun 2014)

(174 g.l. r.s): Bright orange-gold. Smells lighter and livelier than the Betsek, offering fruitier aromas of peach and apricot. Then fresh, high-pitched and tight on the palate, with lively acidity framing and lifting the flavors of orange zest, apricot and spices. Finishes youthful, silky and long. Like the Betsek, this is a blend of furmint,…

Hungary’s 21st-Century Tokajis (Jun 2014)

(185 g/l r.s.): Full orange-gold. High-toned aromas of orange liqueur, honeycomb and walnut, along with a sexy flor-like yeasty note. Silky, fine-grained and moderately viscous, with racy acidity enlivening the high-toned flavors of apricot and sultana raisin. Finishes firm and moderately long.

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.7% alcohol; 2.9 g/l acidity): Full medium-dark red. Sexy, inviting scents of raspberry, mocha, leather, spices and minerals, plus a whiff of dark chocolate. Dense, sweet and deep, conveying outstanding intensity to its plush flavors of blueberry, blackberry and mocha. Spreads out horizontally to saturate the palate on the very long, slowly mounting finish. This…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2015 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a scintillating wine – always has been. Dark cherries and still that hint of bergamot on the nose that shimmers with youthful delight, perfectly in tune with the oak. Perhaps a little more mineralité than I recall. It oddly seems to tighten up with aeration instead of opening! The…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 57% cabernet sauvignon, 23% merlot and 20% cabernet franc; 14.6% alcohol) Deep ruby-purple. Brooding, closed nose hints at strawberry, ripe red cherry, white pepper, minerals and violet; showing its cabernet franc element today. Rich and full on entry, displaying lovely depth to its ripe red fruit, underbrush and tobacco flavors. Harmonious acidity…