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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Haut-Brion has a superb bouquet with very well-defined blackberry, cedar, cigar humidor and dried blood scents that blossom in the glass – quintessential Haut-Brion. The palate is medium-bodied with an almost medicinal entry and fine acidity. It’s the eucalyptus aspect that really defines the finish, something that I was not expecting. Does that…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Cos d’Estournel is a wine of extreme elegance. Silky and light on its feet, the 2020 is incredibly nuanced. In fact it is without question the most finessed of all the top wines in Saint-Estèphe, showing more in common with some of its neighbors in the north of Pauillac than the more potent…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Cos d'Estournel has a more understated bouquet than its peers, demanding more coaxing from the glass to reveal its gravel-tinged black fruit—quintessential Saint-Estèphe, really. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, white-pepper-infused black fruit, gentle grip and quite a persistent finish. It's a bit uncompromising at the moment, but it should evolve into…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Palmer is even more impressive from bottle than it was from barrel, and that is saying something. Rich, exotic and beautifully layered, Palmer is a real head-turner in 2018. Inky dark fruit, chocolate, licorice, espresso and sweet floral notes build over time, but it is the wine's stunning depth and textural voluptuousness that…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Palmer is a legend in the making. I had an inkling out of barrel, but such was its intensity that I wanted to assess it in bottle before I felt confident in saying so, because this could have gone either way. It storms from the glass with black fruit and floral scents, crushed…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Corvées des Vignes, which was picked August 27, has a crisp nose of crushed stone, jasmine and pressed white flowers. The palate is well balanced, taut and fresh, with a fine line of acidity, and lightly spiced toward the finish, which shows good persistence. The tongue tingles on the aftertaste – almost…