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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Phélan Ségur has a light minty bouquet that lacks a bit of vigour, though it opens nicely in the glass to reveal more spicebox aromas, yet after 5 minutes it begins to oxidise. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe tannins, fine acidity, cohesive but not deep. Grippy and ferrous, some dryness seems…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Phélan Ségur is a pleasing, mid-weight wine. Dark cherry, iron, smoke, dried flowers are all nicely delineated in the glass. Next to most of its neighbors, Phélan Ségur is quite restrained in style and not at all flashy, but the 2012 will appeal to classicists for its unfussy personality.

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

A wine of pure silkiness, finesse and lyric beauty, the 2011 Romanée St.-Vivant graces the palate with dried rose petals, mint, violets and bright red berries, all supported by super-polished, crystalline tannins. Cool veins of underlying minerality support the precise, articulate finish. The 2011 is an introspective Burgundy built for the cellar, but it is…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Dark, bright red. Discreet, pristine aromas of raspberry, violet, rose petal and earth. Dense, pure and round, boasting terrific volume to its fat, sweet flavors of strawberry, raspberry, chocolate and underbrush. This really saturates the mouth and glistens on the perfumed, seamless aftertaste. Tannins are extremely fine-grained and smooth. Incidentally, some of the replanted vines…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Nearly opaque glass-staining purple-ruby. Overripe nose combines aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate, cedary oak and truffle. Lush and rather exotic in the mouth, with the liqueur-like quality extending to the ripe black fruit, chocolate and candied violet flavors. Starts off quite sweet but finishes a bit hot and abrupt, with slightly astringent tannins. Some critics…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 La Fleur-Pétrus is tightly wound on the nose at first with plenty of black truffle infused red fruit, crushed rose petals and veins of dark chocolate, but it does not quite possess the amplitude of say, the 2009 Le Gay. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip and good tension. Pure red and…