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2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Bright, deep red. Dark chocolate and medicinal berries on the rather closed nose. Concentrated and fresh but backward, with very ripe flavors of jammy morello cherry and cinnamon. As young and burly as this is, it shows more fruit today than the Echezeaux, and yet its medicinal reserve and concentration suggest that it will evolve…

A Look Back at the 2004 & 2005 Barbarescos (Jun 2016)

The 2004 Barbaresco is at the beginning of what promises to be a long drinking window. Hints of cedar, cinnamon, earthiness and wild flowers open up in the glass with a sense of effortless grace. Brambly notes add a dimension of earthiness. There is so much to like here, first and foremost the wine’s exceptional…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Good medium-deep red. Perfumed aromas of raspberry, truffle, flowers and earth, with a whiff of Burgundian funk. Silky and elegant, with a seamless texture to its red fruit and mineral flavors. Finishes long and suave, with fine-grained tannins. Lovely Barbaresco.

The 2001 Red Burgundies at Age 15 (Apr 2017)

(tasted from a magnum): Full dark red. Maturing but energetic aromas of black raspberry, graphite minerality and licorice, plus a hint of truffley underbrush. Fleshy on entry, then sweet, pure and stuffed with fruit, if still a bit introverted and dominated by its rather powerful structure. Finishes juicy and long, with substantial dusty tannins. This…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2007)

Ruby-red. Smoky cherry, plum and blackcurrant on the nose, with suave cigar box, tobacco and anise nuances. A supple, sweet midweight, with stylish red and dark berry flavors underscored by graphite and cured tobacco. There’s ample concentration here to reward a few more years of aging but it’s drinking very well right now. Pretty impressive…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good full red. Darker fruits on the nose, complicated by minerals, violet and sweet oak. Rich and silky but at the same time minerally and firm; boasts impressive volume and texture but comes across as almost weightless. Finishes tight and youthfully closed, with superb mineral energy and toothcoating tannins. Lovely already but this should really…