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Finding Filhot: Filhot 1935-2015 (May 2019)

The 1990 Filhot has a light brioche and orange blossom-scented bouquet, a touch of lanolin developing with time in the glass. This is very understated considering the growing season’s usual exuberance. The palate offers scents of butterscotch and caramel, a hint of orange pith on the entry. This is balanced if simple for a 1990…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1994 Climens has a simple bouquet with quince, honey and a light chlorine scent. The palate is medium-bodied, balanced but simple, showing dryness on the finish. Drink soon. Tasted from a bottle from my own cellar, I feel that this is running out of steam.

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2016 Brane-Cantenac has a wonderful bouquet. Pure blackberry, cedar and graphite scents blossom in the glass with exquisite delineation and harmony. The palate is medium-bodied with sculpted tannins and a sense of symmetry that the estate had not seen before. Very focused and mineral-driven towards the finish, this was quite simply the best Brane-Cantenac…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2007 Cristal is pretty reticent in this tasting. Then again, it is sandwiched between two great vintages. It is the product of a freakishly early year and an August harvest, rare at the time but increasingly within normal parameters today. The 2007 is 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay, which is to say a…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru exhibits more whole bunch character than the other four “CSJs”. Brambly red fruit, brown spices and a touch of wet limestone. This is unquestionably the most transparent of the five. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, slightly coarser tannins but so much energy and tension….

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Pale yellow. Aromas of oily yellow peach, pear, white flowers and flinty minerality. Sweet, intense and fine-grained, with harmonious acidity and a firm spine of minerality giving energy and finesse to the middle palate. Best today on the rising, resounding finish.