Archives: Product Reviews

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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good full red-ruby. Complex nose combines plum, mocha, minerals, tobacco and burnished oak. A bit tight on entry, then expands and explodes toward the back, showing dense, insinuating flavors of black fruits and licorice. Chewy, sharply delineated Pichon-Baron with excellent underlying backbone and broad, palate-coating tannins. An outstanding vintage for this estate.

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 2001 Ornellaia (magnum) offers up violets, black cherries, minerals and earthiness in a big, structured style. The wine’s sheer intensity and thrust are nothing short of remarkable. Ideally, readers will give the 2001 another few years in bottle; as it is truly majestic stuff but will require patience. The 2001 Ornellaia is 65% Cabernet…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(14. 6% alcohol). Saturated ruby-red. Flamboyant, upfront aromas of black- and redcurrant, raspberry, strawberry, chocolate, mocha and violet pastille. Big, rich, sweet and deep, with superripe, distinctly Mediterranean flavors of blueberry, strawberry and chocolate, kept fresh by sound acidity. Conveys an impression of powerful extract. Finishes with superb, noble tannins and mounting flavors of red…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light yellow-gold. Deeply pitched aromas of poached pear, fresh fig, orange custard and honey, with smoky mineral and buttered toast nuances adding complexity. Stains the palate with ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors that are given spine and focus by juicy acidity. Closes taut, sappy and extremely long, with an echo of toastiness and wonderful…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2002 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Vinothèque is such a classic wine for the vintage. Explosive and opulent to the core, the 2022 is seriously impressive. Baked apple tart, chamomile, acacia honey, hazelnut, coffee and orange confit stain the palate. Plush, generous contours wrap it all together in style. This is what 2002 is all…

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 1989 Lafleur is now asserting itself as the best of the 1988/19889/1990 triumvirate, and that means it is very good. The bouquet is utterly entrancing from first acquaintance, with effervescent and multi-faceted brambly red fruit, black truffle, earthenware and light roasted chestnut scents—quintessential Pomerol. The palate has plenty of concentration, though the passing years…