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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

(a 65/35 blend of cabernet franc and merlot): Moderately saturated medium red-ruby. Cabernet franc-dominated aromas of black cherry, licorice and flowers. Juicy, vibrant and light on its feet, with currant and violet flavors accented by herbs and pepper. Not at all fat but nicely smooth in the middle palate and on the lingering aftertaste, which…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(65% cabernet franc and 35% merlot; pH 3.87; 14.3% alcohol) Deep ruby. Vinous nose offers precise and surprisingly deep aromas of blackcurrant and strawberry. Enters light and smooth, with nicely concentrated flavors similar to the aromas. The extremely silky tannins are not at all those of a second wine, and this Petit Cheval displays much…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good ruby-red. Aromas of cassis, violet, licorice and nutty oak, along with a whiff of woodsmoke. Suave and seamless on entry, then smooth in the middle, with moderate depth and nuance to the berry and chocolate flavors. Finishes with dusty tannins and a lingering minty quality.

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 1994 Léoville Las Cases has a really lovely bouquet with red berry fruit, sous-bois, cedar and tobacco, an archetypical Las Cases with plenty of vigor. The palate is well balanced, a little austere but in a good way, with fine cohesion and freshness. Tobacco and black pepper appear on the finish. Given market prices,…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, USA (Jun 2025)

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles from Domaine Leflaive is young and tightly wound. There’s terrific palate density, along with the classic Leflaive reductive notes, all of which suggest brilliant drinking ahead. I would not dream of touching a bottle anytime soon.

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1988 Yquem is similar to the bottle I tasted two years earlier, one of my favorite vintages from that decade. Orange pith, quince, wax resin, and mandarin blossom on the nose, yet there is more control and focus than in other warmer vintages. The palate is underpinned by a wonderful frisson of acidity that…