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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Petrus was made by Jean-Claude Berrouet (his son Olivier was training at Haut-Brion at the time) and harvest was in early September. This has the best aromatics of any Pomerol that I have tasted alongside Lafleur, featuring lovely red berry fruit and black truffle, almost Burgundian in style and beautifully defined. The palate…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Full ruby-red. Cool, brooding aromas of blackberry liqueur, violet, smoke and minerals. Concentrated, densely packed, minerally and precise; brisk acids contribute to the impression of coolness. Firm, youthfully austere finish. Not as lush or open today as the Lafleur, but this is longer on the aftertaste. I’m not sure I would have picked this blind…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

A dark, hulking beauty, the 2012 Pétrus is utterly beguiling. For the year, the Pétrus boasts remarkable density and pure power. Spice, leather, cedar and tobacco wrap around a core of intense, super-ripe fruit. Bad weather during flowering lowered potential yields and resulted in a firm, powerful Pétrus that is going to need time to…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Bright, deep ruby. An exotic blueberry scent is complicated by sexy notes of violet, cocoa, coffee and flint. Very rich, dense, supple and sweet on the palate, with noteworthy complexity and precision to the spicy black fruit and floral flavors. Conveys a strong impression of energy on the sweet, very long finish. This wine possesses…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Petrus has a slightly higher-toned bouquet than its peers: scents of brambly red fruit and briary, liquorice and dried herbs. This gains complexity in the glass, and a second bottle at Bordeaux Index’s 10-Year-On, given two hours to open, develops some gorgeous pure plummy fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, fleshy, ripe and harmonious…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Le Petit Cheval has a slight more monotone bouquet than 2009 Magrez-Fombrauge. Nicely defined aromas with high-toned blue fruit fusing with blackberry and raspberry notes. It just feels a little static. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, quite Left Bank in style thanks to subtle graphite and cedar notes. Good grip here,…