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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pape Clément has a gorgeous bouquet with vibrant red berry fruit, camphor, raspberry preserve and just a hint of marmalade – very seductive and classy. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins and good density, as you would expect. Whilst a little grainy in texture it feels structured with tarry black fruit, although…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pape Clément has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, hints of liquorice and cedar, very well defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and impressive depth. This is a Pessac with ambition and what it asks in complexity it makes up for in concentration on the…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Complex but restrained aromas of spiced plum, strawberry, mocha, iron, tobacco and sexy oak. Wonderfully rich, layered and concentrated, with a chewy, high-extract quality to its powerful cassis, blueberry, camphor and licorice flavors. Compellingly chewy but without any easy sweetness. Wonderfully intense but not at all overextracted, conveying an impression of medicinal reserve…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(62% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot and 1% cabernet franc; 14.4% alcohol) Deep ruby-purple. Perfumed aromas of strawberry, spicy plum and black cherry. Enters fresh, dense and juicy, with lovely balance to the sweet, syrupy black fruit flavors and lively acidity that extend the rich aftertaste. The long, clean finish features lingering notes of violet and…

2008 Sauternes and Barsacs (May 2010)

Bright light gold. Ripe cling peach, fresh apricot, spices, coconut, minerals and white flowers on the nose, with a note of vanillin oak emerging with air; subdued but wonderfully pure and precise. At once thick and light on its feet, showing an utterly seamless texture and compelling sweetness but also lovely inner-mouth tension thanks to…

Vinous Table: Burgundy Charity Auction and Dinner (Jul 2014)

Bonneau du Martray’s 2006 Corton-Charlemagne (magnum) opens with a super-classic bouquet of slate, crushed rocks and hints of reduction. Bracing and intense and energetic, the 2006 flows with superb focus and pure mineral-drenched cut. From magnum, the 2006 is simply dazzling and appears to have many years of fine drinking ahead of it. 95