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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pontet Canet has a well-defined bouquet with brambly red fruit, tar and tobacco, classic in style, maybe just missing a little flair? The palate is sweet and rounded in texture, quite extractive with mulberry and gamey notes, fairly bretty towards the almost Rhône-like finish. This is difficult to fathom out, not an unenjoyable…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2004 Vintage is a gorgeous Champagne that is just beginning to enter its first plateau of maturity. Dried flowers, brioche, mint, marzipan, tangerine peel and spice lend notable nuance throughout. A hint of reduction adds intrigue. As always, the 2004 is a linear, focused Champagne endowed with terrific energy. It is impeccably done. There’s…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Light gold. Remarkably perfumed nose projects an exotic bouquet of deep, leesy yellow fruit, minerals, honeycomb, smoked meat and flowers, with Asian spices building expanding in the glass. Almost painfully concentrated, offering a surreal parade of orchard and pit fruits, smoked meat, toasted brioche and marrow braced by intensely salty, stunningly incisive minerality. Imagine a…

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 2005 Lafleur has always been a bit of a beast. It is clearly nowhere near its drinking window either on the nose or palate. Blackberry, gravel, wild heather and graphite scents reluctantly emerge on the nose, but it is a little surly compared to the 2008, for example. The palate is huge in terms…

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 2011 Lafleur was just pipped by the 2012. It has retained that Left Bank allure on the nose with graphite and tobacco infusing the black fruit, which does not have quite the brightness nor energy of the following vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, a little drier and more austere than the…