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2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Glass-staining ruby. Highly pungent bouquet offers black fruit compote, olive and floral qualities, along with a slightly high-toned quality that recedes with air. The palate-coating, deeply concentrated cassis and blackberry flavors display a slow-mounting spiciness. Pretty powerful for a wine from this estate, showing more heft and dark fruit character than usual. The finish is…

2011 and 2010 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2013)

Vivid ruby. Intense red fruit and floral aromas are complicated by notes of anise, allspice and minerals. Sappy and incisive on the palate, offering pliant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and an exotic lavender pastille quality. Becomes livelier and spicier with air and finishes with supple tannins, outstanding clarity and noteworthy persistence.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Alluring 2023s and Benchmark 2010s (Nov 2024)

The 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is spot-on. Pronounced licorice, forest floor, tobacco, blackberry jam and a nuance of garrigue are all pushed forward. Powerful and savory, the 2010 is a full-bodied, seriously structured Vieux Télégraphe that’s built for the long haul. Give it four more years to start revealing its full potential.

2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

Dark red. A strong floral quality accents ripe blackberry, kirsch and licorice aromas. Very sweet and impressively suave, with ripe cherry and dark berry flavors nicely framed by supple tannins. Finishes long and juicy, with terrific staying power.

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Vivid red. Impressively complex bouquet of raspberry, dried cherry, garrigue and flowers. Exotic apricot and floral honey notes come up with air and carry onto the palate, which shows sweet red fruit flavors, a smoky quality and a velvety texture. This very elegant wine is already putting on a seductive show. Finishes smooth, juicy and…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Deep, bright red. Explosively perfumed nose offers seductive raspberry, kirsch and floral scents, with a suave mineral underpinning. Extremely fresh, with precise red fruit and floral pastille flavors strongly reminiscent of a broad-shouldered pinot noir. Finishes with outstanding clarity, sweetness and persistence.