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2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Rauzan-Ségla is a classy, elegant wine. Even so, the 2022 very clearly lacks the immediacy of some surrounding vintages. Readers should be prepared to cellar this for a number of years The mid-weight, gracious presence of Rauzan-Ségla is very much present, and yet the tannins are pretty imposing. Dark red/purplish fruit, rose petal,…

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Château d’Armailhac has a detailed and expressive bouquet that’s classic Pauillac in style, with a little more black fruit than I noticed from barrel, here laced with cedar and pencil box aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a succulent entry. It has plenty of fruit concentration, gentle grip, a touch of blackberry…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 d'Armailhac is a dense, potent wine. All of the exuberance and richness of the year comes through loud and clear. The 2022 is an especially plush d'Armailhac built on fruit texture and opulence. Plush contours wrap around a core of dark red-toned fruit, cedar, leather and dried herbs. This is a bit on…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru (Marquis de Laguiche) has a riper bouquet than the Montrachet from Olivier Leflaive Frères. The nose offers candied orange peel, linseed, crushed rock and just a slither of white peaches. It shows fine delineation and becomes quite a patisserie (chestnut Paris Bresse, as a fellow taster astutely observes) with aeration….

Veneto: Stunning Landscapes, Stunning Wines (Mar 2014)

The 2003 is an unusually bold, ripe version of the Valpolicella Classico Superiore. Black cherries, plums, mocha and spices all flesh out in this exuberant wine. The warmth of the vintage is felt in the wine’s contours and early appeal. My suggestion is to drink the 2003 over the next few years. As always, the…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2016 Sassicaia is one of the most powerful, imposing young Sassicaias I can remember tasting. Explosive and vibrant with stunning depth, the 2016 possesses off-the-charts aromatic intensity, richness and structure, all in a mid-weight style that is so distinctive. Plum, lavender, rose petal, spice and mint all build into the explosive, deep finish in…