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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Pichon Baron has a rather slightly meaty, smoky bouquet, this bottle just a little more feral than the last. The palate is medium-bodied with gritty tannins, graphite and mint, rather hard towards the finish. I wonder if this is just past its peak? That said, it has an appealing correctness. Tasted at the…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good ruby-red. Complex nose melds blackcurrant, minerals, graphite, tobacco and licorice. Densely packed and youthfully closed, but also lush and generous, with sweet flavors of currant, tobacco, earth and spices shaped by firm acids. As sweet as this is, it’s also very firmly structured and serious. Offers outstanding palate coverage on the back.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

First bottle corked. Second bottle: Full ruby-red. Dusty aromas of plum syrup and leather, with a distinct whiff of less-than-perfect cooperage. Then fat, sweet and lush, but a bit lacking in delineation. Finishes with a slightly dry edge. An awkward showing, but does not seem to be corked. Drink now through 2010.

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1982 Montrose is an epochal wine for this writer as it opened my mind to the joy of fermented grape juice in the first furlongs of my career. Though I have drunk it countless times thereafter, never from an imperial and no doubt that underlines why this is one of the best examples. Old…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2020 Brane-Cantenac is cut from a similar cloth to the 2019 rather than the 2018. Quite strict at first, it opens with blackberry, cedar and tobacco notes, veering strongly towards Pauillac as Brane-Cantenac is wont to do. The nose has wonderful delineation but is certainly less expressive than the 2019 at the moment. The…

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino continues to be an atypical wine for Poggio di Sotto, yet one that shouldn’t be missed. It’s savory with an herbal tinge up front, giving way to dried roses, strawberries, incense, exotic spice and worn leather. This is surprisingly juicy and lifted in style, with vibrant acidity propelling its tart…