Archives: Product Reviews

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Barolo 2007: Greatness in the Making (Feb 2011)

The 2007 Barolo Ciabot Mentin is one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted at this address. Deep, sensual layers of fruit flow from the glass as this full-throttle, intense Barolo reveals its profound, breathtaking personality. The 2007 shows tons of Ginestra nuance, but with extra dimensions to the fruit that literally covers every…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Cool, floral aromas of red berries, violet, cocoa powder, graphite and spicy oak, along with a whiff of smoked meat. Juicy, sharply delineated and austere; a classic, adamantly dry claret with superb intensity and grip. This is beginning to close up, unlike the ’99. But really expands on the very long, perfumed finish….

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1998 Château Margaux showed better than my previous bottle five or six years ago. Dark berry fruit mixed with pressed iris flower on the nose, a dab of potpourri and exotic flirtations with fig, this opens wonderfully in the glass. The palate is now mature with a crisp line of acidity, vibrant though not…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

It has been several years since I last tasted the 1970 Haut-Brion. Unfortunately, one bottle opened in Burgundy was a little oxidized, though another was more representative. Even so, it was not a great period for the estate, then owned by the Woltners. Plenty of dusty black fruit on the nose infused with black olive,…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2005 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, tasted from magnum (for some reason, it always seems to turn up in this format), is one of Sylvain Pitiot’s greatest successes. It was picked September 21 to September 24 (at 11am, to be exact). The yield was 27hl/ha with 14° alcohol. The precocity of the growing season…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Deep red-ruby. Explosive nose offers superripe plum jam and chocolate notes complicated by smoked meat and lifted by minerality; some violet and black pepper nuances reminded me of Cote-Rotie. Large-scaled, broad and thick; less racy and delineated today than the young 2006 but then this very young wine’s minerality and fruit are currently hidden by…