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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Canon is every bit as magnificent from bottle as it was from barrel. Maybe more so. Vertical and explosive in the glass, Canon sizzles with tension and vibrancy. Readers will find a majestic, soaring Grand Cru Classé that captures all the magic of Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau. Canon exudes mind-blowing precision and deliciousness. It…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Canon was picked starting on September 7 and finishing on October 9. Given a two-hour decant, it reveals a surprisingly precocious bouquet, more exuberant than I recall from barrel, offering predominantly black fruit, though the floral element is now amplified and masks the crushed limestone I observed previously (for how long?) The palate…

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The nascent 2022 Léoville Las-Cases, matured in 85% new oak, instantly makes an impression and vindicates my rhapsodizing from barrel. Intense yet boasting exquisite delineation, the aromatics are endowed with immense depth, retaining those estuarine nuances, hints of blue fruit, fig and crushed violets. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins. Stunningly balanced and poised,…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Léoville Las-Cases is a wine of tremendous substance and pure power. Even with all of its textural intensity, Léoville Las Cases remains wonderfully light on its feet. The 2022 is part of the modern series of Las Cases, wines that won’t take decades to be at their best. I especially admire its brightness,…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 La Mondotte is super-concentrated, rich and unctuous, with serious intensity in all of its dimensions. Black cherry, blackberry, bittersweet chocolate, leather and licorice add to an impression of brooding, virile power, while beams of supporting tannin extend the finish. Today, La Mondotte is more about power than finesse. The 2015 needs at least…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 La Mondotte has a slight dustiness on the nose and is missing the same freshness as its peers. This needs more presence. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, an appealing fleshy texture and a sweet core of blood orange-infused black fruit segueing into a light chocolaty finish. Again, it needs another two…