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Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Talbot might be one of the most underestimated wines of the Left Bank. This bottle was my own contribution and it outflanked some of the more expensive, better reputed Saint-Julien wines. Captivating on the nose, classical through and through, this is fresh and vibrant, a bit leaner than the Ducru-Beaucaillou though with more…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

Recent vintages of the 2005 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru have left me not particularly impressed. In this era, the winemaking duties were undertaken by Benjamin Leroux; this magnum was bought by current winemaker Paul Zanetti. I just find it trying much too hard to make an impression. The aromas are bold and in…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Saturated ruby. Superripe but fresh aromas of black raspberry, licorice and spices, with a hint of more exotic fruits. Sweet but not quite jammy, with very rich and distinctly black fruit flavors complicated by spices and bitter chocolate. A Pommard of compelling depth and verve, with flavors mounting slowly and inexorably to take over the…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Opaque ruby. Powerful cassis, cherry-cola and floral aromas are complemented by suggestions of licorice, vanilla and smoky minerals. Plush and deeply concentrated yet surprisingly lively as well. It offers plush, spice-laced cherry and dark berry preserve, vanilla and fruitcake flavors supported by a spine of juicy acidity. Rounded tannins frame the smoke-tinged finish, which lingers…

2023 Burgundy Supplement (Feb 2025)

The 2013 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru remains quite young, although it is decidedly delicate, pretty and understated in style. It has also aged exceptionally well thus far. Tangerine oil, orchard fruit, citrus peel and light tropical overtones build effortlessly through to the long, sustained close.

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Bright, pale yellow. Tight aromas of mirabelle, crushed herbs, licorice and powdered stone are complicated by a distinctive oyster shell quality and a hint of orange zest. Dense and creamy but juicy too, showing good cut and a light touch. Perhaps not squeaky-clean but the exotic orange zest and mineral flavors carry well on the…