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Sancerre’s Charm Offensive (Jul 2023)

The 2021 Les Chailloux is Riffault’s only Sancerre grown on flint soils – the rest is on limestone. And it evokes the scent of flint being struck. It is a cool, westish-facing site that doesn’t get morning sun, so it’s a taut, crisp, citrus style with gooseberry flavors and nettles. There’s a hint of nutty…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2017 Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée shows its typical brightness and energy, but like all the 2017s in the range, the volume is turned down and there is just less of the heady, explosive richness found in the very best years. White pepper, green orchard fruit, crushed rocks and flowers lend nuance. La Bolorée…

New Zealand Reds: Treading Lightly (Apr 2022)

The 2019 Pinot Noir Settlement Vineyard is full of vigor, conveying a real sense of urgency from the start to the long-drawn-out finish. While supple and smooth in the mouth, it punches home with mouthcoating, firm tannins and a flourish of acidity that ties the wine together and provides long length. The wine’s red-fruit aromatics…

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice comes from old vines that ripen later than others, so Galeyrand uses them for their massal selection program. Blended with 20% whole bunch, this has a heart-warming bouquet with raspberry and wild strawberry fruit notes and a touch of forest floor. The palate is medium-bodied, harmonious and refined, with supple…

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard 1er Cru (Rouge) comes from 50- to 60-year-old vines that produce smaller berries. This has an exquisite bouquet with wild strawberry, crushed stone and wild hedgerow. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. The stems impart noticeable pepperiness that defines the finish at the moment. Give this time in…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Saint Romain Le Jarron has a lively bouquet after a few swirls of the glass – lime and lemon zest coming through with aeration. The well-balanced palate has fine weight and a pleasing “fatness” in the mouth with a pithy finish. Enjoy over 3-4 years.