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Domaines Great & Small: Burgundy Interim Report (Aug 2025)

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has a more backward bouquet with touches of petrichor and green apple unfolding in the glass, quite strict compared to the other cuvées. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. There is a touch of reduction at the moment, but it is simpatico with the…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

A blend of 50- to 70-year-old vines from various parcels around Brochon, the 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin "Mes Cinq Terroirs" has a taut, strict bouquet of pixelated red berry fruit laced with crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, superb acidity, a silky-smooth texture and a crystalline finish. Outstanding.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru contains two-thirds whole cluster and is matured in 50% new oak. It has a well-defined bouquet of raspberry, wild strawberry and pressed rose petal scents, plus just a hint of black truffle in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. A gentle, lilting Les Malconsorts with…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2022 Brane-Cantenac marked a year when ownership passed to Henri Lurton’s four children, although he remains as general manager. More importantly (perhaps), the 2022 is a benchmark for the Margaux estate, its future North Star. This has a stupendous nose with intense Cabernet Sauvignon inflections, its intensity and delineation superior to the 2019 and…

Vinous Table: La Lune, Beaune, France

The 2009 Chambertin Grand Cru is in a beautiful place. It boasts a cornucopia of aromas on the nose. Effervescent red fruit, rose petals, freshly tilled loam and light red brick scents blossom in the glass, each vying for your attention and delineated to perfection. The palate delivers the sumptuousness of the 2009 vintage, all…

Santa Cruz Mountains – California’s Hidden Gem (Nov 2023)

The 2020 Monte Bello opens with a burst of dark red fruit. Leather, tobacco and mocha open nicely in the glass. There’s no getting past smoke taint in this wine. That’s a shame, as the flavors are nicely delineated and the tannins are well balanced for the year in this small-scaled Monte Bello. The 2020…