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The Murakami Wine: Royal Tokaji Essencia 1993-2017 (Mar 2025)

The 2009 Tokaji Essencia is a production of 1,356 bottles. It contains 581 g/l residual sugar and 11.8 g/l acidity. Very complex, it’s quite profound on a nose that is still just a little timid coming after the 2016. Seville orange marmalade, quince jus, honeycomb and butterscotch gradually unfold in the glass. It conveys a…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(from vines planted in the early ’90s) Good full medium red. Cassis, licorice, flowers, minerals and a whiff of tar on the nose. Sweet and supple in the mouth; a step up in texture from the village wines despite the youth of these vines. Nicely juicy and intense wine, finishing with palate-dusting tannins.

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 82% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 8% cabernet franc; 74 IPT; 3.56 pH; 75% new oak; 13.7% alcohol) Deep ruby with purple highlights. Sexy, classic, captivating cabernet sauvignon aromas of blackcurrant, graphite and cedar complicated by minerals. Silky-sweet, fine-grained and almost gentle on entry, with well-integrated acidity contributing to an impression of…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Léoville Las Cases has a clean and precise bouquet, beautifully focused with blackberry, melted tar, cigar humidor and crushed stone aromas. It gains intensity with aeration without ever losing its precision. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a sense of abiding symmetry and detail as it fans…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Léoville Las Cases has a youthful, very oaky bouquet, even after 10 years, modern in style but very pure and charming. The palate is rounded and fleshy on the entry with candied black fruit, sweet and more like a 2009 stylistically. Lovely cassis notes mixed with blueberry furnish the finish. Very seductive, although…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Vibrant nose combines black and blue fruits, lead pencil and crushed-stone minerality, with a note of kirsch emerging with air. Utterly silky in texture yet extremely backward, with a medicinal quality keeping the penetrating dark berry flavors under wraps today. But with a powerful impression of tangy energy, a superb spine of saline…