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Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Saturated ruby. Displays intensely perfumed red and blue fruit preserves, baking spices, candied violet and licorice scents; a smoky mineral quality builds in the glass. Plush, sweet and broad on the palate, offering deeply concentrated, smoke-laced cherry-vanilla, boysenberry and fruitcake flavors that spread out and pick up a spicy nuance with aeration. Manages to be…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Brilliant violet. Ripe dark fruit, floral and exotic spice aromas, along with suggestions of licorice and smoky minerals. Chewy and focused on entry and then more fluid in the midpalate, offering liqueur-like bitter cherry, blackberry and boysenberry flavors and a hint of succulent herbs. Closes very long and precise, with resonating floral and spice notes…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Opaque ruby. Expansive, oak-spiced cherry and blackberry scents are complemented by suggestions of candied violet, licorice and mocha. Lush and weighty on the palate, offering ripe red and dark berry flavors and hints of fruitcake and cola. Shows serious power and spicy lift on a long, gently tannic finish that echoes the cherry and licorice…

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

Taittinger’s 2006 Comtes de Champagne Rosé has come along nicely over the last six months. Intensely perfumed, Pinot-inflected aromatics carry through the mid-palate and finish as the 2006 shows off its depth and pure energy. Veins of chalky minerality give the red berry and cranberry flavors an extra kick of energy. The 2006 is both…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2006 Comtes de Champagne Rosé has come together beautifully since I last tasted it. Time has released its inner concentration and layers. Exotic spice, blood orange, pomegranate, cedar and sweet spice tobacco lend notable flair, with the the Pinot very much front and center.

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(12.7% alcohol; vinified with 40% whole clusters): Medium red. Musky scents of raspberry, smoke and black olive reminded me of Syrah. Suave and seamless in the mouth, conveying a ripe chocolatey quality as well as good herbal lift. More spicy and serious than the basic village offering but also more imploded today. Finishes with dusty…