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Alsace: The 2016s & Late-Released 2015s (Apr 2018)

Bright straw-green. Complex aromas of lime, jasmine, lemon verbena, herbs and anise. Dense but juicy; solid but harmonious acidity lifts flavors similar to the aromas and adds to the impression of a firm underlying structure. A very deep wine that finishes long, fruity, floral, peppery and honeyed, with sneaky persistence and building complexity. Great stuff….

Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté, which comes from younger vines less than 25 years old, has a very expressive bouquet that gets hold the variety with both hands. Plenty of yellow flowers here, wax resin, freshly washed white linen and light beeswax aromas. The palate is well balanced with an edgy opening, vibrant and lively with…

Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté Vieilles Vignes, which comes from the vines planted in 1902, was taken directly from foudres and will be bottled in September. Lots of extract on the nose here, delineated, a little yeasty perhaps, yet there is plenty of freshness. The palate is well-defined with plenty of tension, fine acidity and slightly…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Good medium ruby. Expressive aromas of blackcurrant, musky minerals, flint and earth. Sweet and silky but with edgy, peppery acidity giving it a slightly disjointed quality. Finishes with good energy and length but comes across as a bit dry on the aftertaste.

2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

(there are 120 barrels of this cuvee, compared to just 18 for the Chassagne villages More fruit-driven aromas of ripe peach and minerals, with a whiff of porcini. Less fat than the Chassagne villages, with an impression of stronger lemony acidity, and firmer minerality, giving it a more taut texture. But there’s no shortage of…

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Ruby-red. Ripe cherry and dark berries on the nose, with complicating smokiness and a hint of cola. Very rich, weighty dark berry flavors are accented and framed by garrigue and fine-grained tannins. The cola note repeats on the long, gently chewy finish. This could handle a grilled hunk of red meat with ease.