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Châteauneuf-du-Pape New Releases: Welcome to the Pleasuredome (Jun 2023)

The 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape displays pronounced aromas of ripe forest strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, blackcurrant, licorice, mint, cured meat, dried herbs and hints of tobacco. On the palate it is full-bodied, concentrated, muscular and framed by polished tannins. Lively acids perfectly balance it, ending with excellent persistence on the savory finish. Producing this high level of quality…

Flirting with Perfection – Giaconda Chardonnay 2011-2021 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Chardonnay shows fantastic definition, power and length. Pithy aromas of musky peach, nougat, flint, gunpowder and granitic minerality frame this wine, leaning heavily on earth tones. Chewy in texture, this is like a mini-2017—incredibly long and tight, with the depths of its charms yet to be unveiled. A backbone of chalky acidity maintains…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Bourgogne Blanc has a light grass clipping scented bouquet that needs a little more oomph. The palate is well balanced with fine tension and acidity, citrus peel and orange rind notes on the finish. It’s just the aromatics that need to pull their socks up.

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

Interestingly, the 2013 Cristal Rosé is more austere than the Blanc. It has plenty of vibrant energy and steeliness but also a touch less generosity today. I suspect the 2013 is going through a period of closure, which I take as a positive sign for its long-term prospects and aging potential—likely to be measured in…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, cropped at 35hl/ha, is the first year farmed biodynamically. This was completely breathtaking in barrel, and now, in bottle, nothing has changed in that respect. It has an ineffably complex bouquet, not as intense as it showed in barrel yet extremely deep and cerebral, black fruit mingling with…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(an approximation of the final blend): Bright, deep red. Very pure but reserved aromas of raspberry, crushed rock, rose petal, spices, mocha and tobacco, lifted by a calcaire pungency. Compellingly silky and seamless but with terrific energy and subtle intensity to its dense flavors of red berries, dark cherry, spices and powdered stone, complicated by…