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Cellar Favorite: 1967 Château d’Yquem Sauternes Premier Grand Cru (Jan 2021)

With the possible exception of the 1945 and 1928 Yquem, the 1967 is, by most people’s reckoning, the benchmark Sauternes of the 20th century. This bottle more than lived up to that reputation. Deep gold in color, it offers up a dizzying array of scents ranging from singed orange peel, caramelized pear, apricot nectar, fig…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

This bottle of 1967 Yquem was poured following a Petrus vertical at Hide restaurant alongside the 1893. Very concentrated grapes were picked from 26 September to 26 October. It has a wonderful bouquet, entrancing, scents of dried honey, crème brûlée, caramelised pear, fresh figs and quince bursting from the glass with fabulous delineation. Almost Barsac-like…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Light, bright gold with a steady bead. Orange, ripe pear, red berries and white flowers on the nose, with complementary notes of lemon, honey, sweet butter and smoky minerals. Ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors are braced by gentle minerality, picking up subtle baking spice and buttered toast notes with air. Surprisingly generous at this…

Taittinger: Comtes de Champagne 1971— 1998 (Aug 2010)

The 1989 Comtes de Champagne is darker in color than the 1988 and also quite a bit more forward. Candied orange peel, spices and caramel suggest it is on a fairly quick path. Today the 1989 is most impressive for its generous texture and complete, developed personality. This won’t make old bones, but it is…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 2004 La Conseillante took a little time to settle in the glass but eventually reveals pretty red brambly fruit mixed with wild hedgerow, broom and graphite. With aeration it musters more and more precision, so decanting is advisable for this vintage. The palate is showing very well. It has a surprising structure and plenty…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Red-ruby. Aromas of red cherry, violet and licorice, complicated by mint and tobacco; cooler than the ’05 or 06 and more Burgundian in style. Suave and fresh but narrower than the subsequent vintages. Still, the tannins are ripe and easy rather than dry and the finish offers good persistence. This will make a tasty drink…