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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Village, which was bottled in January 2020, offers attractive green apple and lime scents on the nose, a touch of citrus peel developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded texture, creamy and generous, what you might call a crowd-pleasing Chassagne that would win wide approval, though maybe the 2019…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Good full, bright red. Deep, chalky aromas of dark raspberry, tapenade and saline minerality. A pure expression of soil, showing terrific inner-mouth tension and minerality to the intense flavors of brooding dark raspberry, pepper and spices. This wonderfully vibrant, energetic wine finishes with firm but suave tannins and a repeating peppery accent. Classic 2013 in…

Vinous Table: Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy (Jun 2013)

I have always adored San Giusto a Rentennano’s 2006 Percarlo, a wine I bought heavily as 2006 is my son’s birth year. Is the 2006 ready? Of course not, but after a gentle decant it is gorgeous with this menu. It is an especially good match for the pigeon and quadrotto. The bright Sangiovese acidity…

2016 Chianti Classico – A Modern Day Benchmark (Aug 2019)

The 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Ama San Lorenzo is a blend taken from Ama’s four core estate vineyards. Black cherry, graphite, sage, mint, juniper berries and licorice give the San Lorenzo a distinctly dark, brooding profile to match its powerful feel. The big tannins need time to soften, but there is certainly…

Chianti Classico and Beyond – New Releases (Sep 2014)

Felsina’s 2011 Fontalloro is wonderfully expressive today. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, rose petal and sweet spices all blossom in the glass. Impeccably layered and sensual, the 2011 captures all the best qualities of the year. Sweet floral and red-toned notes burst with great energy on the structured finish. Fontalloro seems to have come a…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Deep bright-rimmed ruby. Ripe black and blue fruit and floral scents, accompanied by olive and exotic spice and incense notes. Fleshy and concentrated yet lively as well, offering sweet, smoke-tinged cassis and blackberry flavors and a touch of candied violet. The spice and floral notes come back on a very long, penetrating finish framed by…