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2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Deep red-ruby. Musky dark raspberry and smoke on the nose, with cherry coming up with air. Sweet, lush and full, with rich flavors of dark berries, chocolate and spicy oak. Fat for this cuvee but a bit shut down today. Long and sweet on the finish.

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1983 Latour is a delightful surprise. It is a vintage that I had not seen for a few years, and I had just two vague recollections of an ordinary First Growth; this was far superior and unquestionably the best bottle I have encountered. Modest bricking on the rim. The harmonious bouquet is fragrant and…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Latour is served blind with a mischievous Nicolas Glumineau next door at Pichon-Lalande. This is a fine showing for a wine unfairly lying in the shadow of the previous vintage. Blackberry, tobacco and shavings of black truffle on the nose that is higher-toned than you would expect (indeed, it throws me off identifying…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a “decent” quantity this year according to Romain Taupenot, though that only equates to a measly 170-litres. Despite the miniscule quantity, this is still de-stemmed. It has a crisp nose with brambly red berry fruit, pressed rose petals and a touch of Earl Grey. The palate is…

The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem (May 2025)

The 1994 Yquem, a vintage that sacraligiously I have not tasted before, was upended at the last furlong by two weeks of rain on the eve of picking. The wine comes from continuous harvest between October 5 and 14. It has a clear amber hue with green tints on the rim. The bouquet is better…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Alter Ego de Palmer has a potent nose with plenty of black fruit, perhaps just a tad more exuberant than its peers. Cedar and pine aromas come through with aeration, followed by a scent of India ink. The palate is medium-bodied with a plush, almost voluptuous texture. Though it is very concentrated initially,…