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Napa Valley’s Thrilling 2018s & 2019s, Parts 1 & 2 (Jan 2021)

The 2018 Chardonnay is a gorgeous, luscious Chardonnay loaded with character. Plush fruit and soft contours bring out all of the natural richness of various Wente Clone Chardonnay selections. Almond paste, dried flowers, butter, chamomile, apricot and tropical fruit all build into a striking crescendo of flavors and textures. This is an especially oily, weighty…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2018 Beaune Clos des Mouches Rouge 1er Cru, which includes 25% whole clusters and a maximum of 25% new oak, has a well-defined nose with dark cherries, raspberry and perhaps less of the blueberry element that I remarked upon from barrel. The palate is medium-bodied with a very smooth texture, fleshy and generous with…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru, which comes from Les Rouges du Bas, has a far more complex bouquet compared to the Clos de Vougeot; marmalade and dried quince scents infuse the exotic red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with tart red berry fruit on the entry, laced with orange peel and touches of tobacco….

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Pale yellow. Pear and white flowers on the nose. Concentrated but stony and closed on the palate, showing less fruit in the early going than the Chenevottes. Tactile, salty wine with good breadth but only moderate length and grip. Incidentally, these virused, very old (about 70 years) vines, which typically yield very small grapes, produced…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(4.81 acidity!): Bright pale yellow. White peach, citrus peel and powdered stone on the nose. Densely packed, supple and elegant, with a silky texture and terrific inner-mouth perfume to the brisk lemon, lime and mineral flavors. I love the combination of racy acidity and 13.5% alcohol. Most impressive on the rich, rising finish. From soil…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets 1er Cru has a well-defined, sunny bouquet of orange pith and nectarine; an underlying mineralité comes through with aeration. The palate is taut, fresh and quite saline in the mouth, with a touch of sour lemon on a finish of moderate length. This feels quite backward but its energy suggests a…