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2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(from a crop level of 50 hectoliters per hectare): A hint of reduction to the aromas of pear, stone, menthol and herbs; a bit wild in a positive way. Dense, rich and sappy, with its touch of sweetness perfectly countered by crushed-stone minerality. At once broad and vibrant, with tactile flavors of grapefruit pith, lemon…

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru is a dense, phenolic and powerful wine that captures the tiny yields of the vintage. Lemon confit, pear, white flowers, mint and lightly honeyed notes explode from the glass in a Chablis endowed with tremendous character as well as persistence. This is an especially ample, full-bodied edition of this…

Mirror Image: 2016 & 2017 Chablis (Aug 2018)

The 2017 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru suffered a lot of frost damage and was picked at less than 20hl/ha. It has a refined bouquet, nicely delineated if just missing a little focus and energy. The palate is well balanced with good salinity on the entry, but the remainder of the palate does not follow through…

Ridge Monte Bello Revisited: 1968 – 2012 (Jul 2016)

The 2012 is a racy, voluptuous Monte Bello built on a core of sweet red fruit, with striking perfume, silky tannins and fabulous overall balance. The 2012 is of course an infant, and the new oak is still evident. As Vinous readers know, Monte Bello is a wine that really should not be touched until…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good full medium ruby. Perfumed aromas of cassis, redcurrant, plum, minerals, coconut and violet. Lush, dense and gentle; rich and chocolatey. With so much baby fat, this wine appears to miss out on ultimate clarity and grip. But finishes tight, with a touch of austerity and nicely restrained sweetness. Still quite young. Drink 2005 through…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1990 Cos d’Estournel is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. I have always had a soft spot for the 1990. It does not disappoint with gorgeous scents of clove, bay leaf, and warm gravel that are almost Pomerol-like in style. The palate is fresh and lively. This 1990 is very…