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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright medium ruby-red. Exotic black fruits and spices on the nose, with notes of chocolate, smoke and game; showing its 29% merlot component today. Rich, broad and chocolatey; sweet, creamy and superripe. A big, mouthfilling vintage for this chateau, combining a classic Pauillac medicinal character with the chocolatey ripeness of the vintage. Thick but nicely…

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2018 Opus One is absolutely exquisite. Bright red berry fruit, crushed flowers, mint and spice are all finely cut. The 2018 impresses with its energy and focus. It’s a gorgeous wine, and is also showing especially well today, with all of the potential I first saw in barrel very much on display. Bright acids…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 La Tâche Grand Cru exhibits quite a strong whole-bunch influence on the nose, perhaps a little too much when juxtaposed against the more seamless Richebourg. Scents of black truffle, pressed rose petal and decayed autumn leaves/undergrowth infuse the mainly dark fruit. There is something a little introspective about this nascent La Tâche. The…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a beautifully defined bouquet of extremely pure brambly red fruit, and the oak is very well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine structure and well-judged acidity. Though this is initially backward on the finish, it opens nicely in the glass. Whether it is long-term is…

What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)

The 2009 Suduiraut, aged in 55% new oak, is surprisingly closed at first but it soon awakens with aeration and begins revving its motor. It has a divine bouquet with honey, chamomile, yellow flowers and nectarine, building layer upon layer. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous opening, a beautiful razor-sharp line of acidity that…

Bols Blue to Bordeaux: Barde-Haut, Clos l’Église & Poesia (Jun 2022)

The 2010 Clos l’Eglise is more closed and introverted on the nose compared to the previous vintage, but affording it 15-20 minutes in the glass, it reveals beguiling redcurrant, raspberry coulis, rose petal and crushed stone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a little more weight than the 2009. This is vibrant and surprisingly spicy,…