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A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Meursault Les Charmes Dessus 1er Cru has a crisp and well-defined bouquet with much more terroir expression than Fabien Coche’s Meursault Charmes. It is nuanced with hints of popcorn and walnut. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, taut and focused, quite tangy with a twist of bitter lemon towards the finish….

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Red-ruby. Explosive aromas of plum liqueur, currant, minerals and lead pencil. Huge, lush, sweet and utterly seamless; this has the palate-caressing texture of liquid velvet. About as deep as this extreme vintage gets. Finishes with noble, compellingly sweet tannins and great length. This is amazing wine, and only its exotic character prevented me from giving…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Mouton Rothschild is a rich, shockingly flamboyant wine endowed with tremendous fruit density and a level of unctuousness that could be taken for a wine still in barrel. Marvelously open and fleshy, the 2018 is utterly breathtaking today. I imagine it will shut down at some point, but today it is all seduction…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Mouton-Rothschild needed 2–3 hours before I began composing a single word. Eventually it unfolds with the same aromatics that I observed out of barrel: extraordinarily pure blackberry, blueberry, pressed violet petals and potpourri. It still has the alluring Margaux-like florality. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, disarmingly satin-like texture and wonderful cohesion….

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Le Petit Mouton continues a strong run for this Second Wine. It has an upfront, quite bold bouquet offering a mixture of red and black fruit, freshly tilled soil, potpourri and cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins on the entry. A structured Le Petit Mouton with good grip and salinity. It…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

Just as it was from barrel, the 2018 Le Petit-Mouton is fleshy, radiant and very easy to enjoy. Soft contours and silky tannins add to its considerable allure. Because of low yields, the Petit-Mouton was aged entirely in new oak. Rich, sumptuous and bold to the core, the 2018 is a rock star wine.