Archives: Product Reviews

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Rheinhessen 2018: Revelatory Rieslings (Nov 2020)

On the nose, a smoky, peaty, and far more overtly mineral impression is conveyed than from the corresponding Abtserde, without the latter’s anticipations of floral perfume. By way of fruit aromas, zesty lime and lemon, piquant huckleberry and prickly, pungent white currant dominate. But on the glossy palate, a succulent influx of ripe peach joins…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Pontet Labrie has really come together beautifully with élevage. Rich, powerful and explosive, the 2019 possesses tremendous depth and resonance from start to finish. Dark cherry, spice, new leather, licorice and scorched earth lend gorgeous complexity. En primeur, the richness of the Merlot drove the balance, but over time the Franc has caught…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Pontet Labrie has a detailed, perfumed bouquet of pure red cherry and blackberry fruit, touches of pressed violet petals emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip on the entry, lightly spiced and a little more marine-influenced on the finish. This has kicked on nicely during its élevage and deserves a…

Vinous Table: L’Ardente, Washington, D.C., United States (Jun 2025)

The 2000 Unico, a blend of 93% Tinto Fino and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, is very seductive aromatically, displaying wild strawberry tinged with eucalyptus, primal yet sensual. The oak that always cloaks Unico in its flush of youth is now assimilated. The palate is pliant, yet you immediately recognise that this millennial has plenty of gas…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 2000 d’Angludet is a vintage that I have not tasted for many years. It is mature on the nose with dusky black fruit, loam, rusty piping and brown spice aromas. It has evolved more than I expected. That said, I find the palate is well balanced and displays a bit of rigidity, even after…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good dark red. Complex aromas of raspberry, tobacco and minerals. Sweet, lush and stuffed with fruit. Finishes with ripe tannins and excellent length. As ripe and expressive as this is, it’s evolving at a leisurely pace.