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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Mouton Rothschild clearly has a fresher bouquet than the Clerc Milon or Armailhac: copious black fruit, cedar, graphite and violet scents soar from the glass, entrancing with beautiful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, quite poised and less ferrous than some of its peers. Mint and veins of dark chocolate are…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Mouton Rothschild clearly has a fresher bouquet than the Clerc Milon or Armailhac: copious black fruit, cedar, graphite and violet scents soar from the glass, entrancing with beautiful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, quite poised and less ferrous than some of its peers. Mint and veins of dark chocolate are…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(bottled late, in November of 2007) Saturated red-ruby. Explosive aromas of plum, raspberry, bitter chocolate, coffee, almond paste and smoke; this smells voluptuous. Then extraordinarily opulent on the palate, with an almost marzipan-like ripeness. Coats every square millimeter of the mouth with a texture of liquid silk. The baby fat here is incredible, but there’s…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Château Margaux is a First Growth that I had not tasted for several years. According to the estate, it finally began to open during the pandemic. I remember this was stellar in its flush of youth, and earned a three-figure score from the Southwold blind tasting way back in 2009. Now at two…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

In two recent tastings the 2005 Château Margaux has been nothing less than magnificent. A wine of stunning perfume and inner sweetness, the 2005 gradually opens to reveal layers of red-toned fruit intermingled with floral accents. It’s as if all the classic Margaux signatures have been amped up in a huge way. Dehydration on the…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Thorey 1er Cru is consistent with my previous notes. Raspberry and black cherries, less cassis than noted out of barrel and more Pinoté than expected. The palate is well-balanced with fine-grain tannins. It’s quite Vosne-like thanks to its florality, with a subtle oyster shell-tinged finish. It still requires a couple…