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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Latour comes from a period where the First Growth was not firing on all cylinders. This offers black fruit laced with cedar and damp loamy scents, tertiary and a little smoky in style. The palate is well balanced though it does not deliver the complexity of a top Latour. There is gentle grip…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have not encountered for several years. This has an intense nose with dark berry fruit, wild mint, iris flower and just a touch of garrigues. Complex and entrancing. The palate is medium-bodied with the presence and gravitas you expect from a First Growth. Very harmonious with a…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(14.5% alcohol; 100% merlot; 50% new oak) Good, fully saturated ruby. Complex, brooding nose offers aromas of ripe plum, blackberry jam, violet, cocoa syrup and Oriental spices; though deep and opulent, the nose is much less forward and exotic than either the 2008 or 2009. The palate offers outstanding intensity to the blackcurrant, cocoa and…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Petrus has a tough job following on from Le Pin in the sense that it is habitually more introspective, less flamboyant than its Pomerol counterpart. The bouquet is mercurial, initially quite rich and forward but then backing down, becoming more discreet with loam-tinged red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, plenty…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Petrus has an extraordinary bouquet, ineffably complex with brambly red fruit, sous-bois, dried blood and wild mint aromas that unfurl magically from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and generous, yet amazingly controlled with such tension and grace on the silky smooth finish. This is a fantastic Petrus, one…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Fully saturated ruby. Knockout aromas of fresh black cherry, blackcurrant, exotic herbs, coffee and menthol, plus a hint of minerality. Juicy, fruit-driven flavors of dark berries and cherry are complicated by cocoa, vanilla and graphite and given laser-like precision by vibrant, harmonious acidity. Manages to be both fleshy and acidic at the same time, demonstrating…