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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2002)

Wonderfully subtle, complex aromas of white flowers, acacia honey, minerals, nuts and mushroom, with musky and leesy nuances. Oily, rich and smoky but with terrific verve and lift. Quite substantial and chewy for a young D.P. but not at all heavy. Yellow plum and strong soil tones in the middle and on the palate-staining finish….

Vinous Table: Hurricane Sandy Charity Dinner at The Modern (Jan 2014)

We start with a side-by-side comparison of Bollinger’s 2002 and 2004 Vieilles Vignes Françaises, one of my favorite Champagnes. The 2002 is spectacular, as it always is. Rich, warm and resonant, the 2002 covers the palate with seemingly endless layers of burnished, honeyed fruit and the most finessed, subtle mousse imaginable. I don’t see the…

2009 Vintage Ports (Nov 2012)

Full, deep, saturated ruby. The aromas of plum, cherry and licorice show an almost roasted ripeness. Large-scaled, superripe and verging on exotic; the wine’s huge tannins are buffered by very sweet, deep black cherry and dark berry fruit flavors. I find this port a bit blurry compared to the vintage’s best examples. Tasted three times,…

2009 Vintage Ports (Nov 2012)

Saturated deep ruby. Very ripe, expressive nose offers cassis, black cherry, licorice and exotic herbs. Hugely rich, thick and powerful in the context of the vintage, but with lovely purity and a saline complexity to the flavors of crushed black cherry and boysenberry. This will need some time in bottle to harmonize its brandy but…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru has a more “aloof” bouquet. It’s Zen-like at first, with apple blossom and light, wet pavement scents. However, I would have liked more intensity. The palate is nicely balanced with deftly integrated oak. A silver bead of acidity keeps this Puligny on its tiptoes, fresh and saline so…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a brilliantly defined bouquet of tensile citrus fruit, petrichor and just a touch of dewy meadow. The fresh, taut palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity, focused and saline. It tightens up toward the austere finish. There is not a huge difference between this and the Les…