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The Best New Wines from Spain (Sep 2006)

Dark red. Intense, expressive aromas of blackberry, blueberry, cherry liqueur, sandalwood, cigar box, roasted coffee and exotic chocolate. Thick and sweet, with deep red and dark berry flavors complicated by an array of pungent spices, mocha, vanilla bean and cured tobacco. Deep, penetrating and very long on the finish, with wonderfully sweet cherry and blackcurrant…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Grand Puy Lacoste, which was vinified in epoxy-lined concrete vats, was tasted at the château with Emeline Borie. Borie remarked that it evinced a more rustic approach at the estate, and to honest, it did not impress. A week later, I took my own bottle that I had acquired via a West Country…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Lafon-Rochet is more concentrated on the nose than the Pagodes de Cos that precedes it: blackberry briar and melted tar, gaining delineation with aeration. The oak is well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied, with sapid black fruit and iodine, and there is a noticeable marine influence towards the finish. Moderate length. Drink now…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Grand-Puy-Lacoste has a punchy bouquet of red and black fruit with light touches of wild mint and sage. This is actually a little Right Bank in style so it lacks a bit of typicité. The palate is medium-bodied with smooth tannins on the entry, slightly savoury red berry fruit and hints of iodine…

Santa Cruz Mountains: The Compelling 2018s & 2019s (May 2022)

The 2019 Monte Bello is a wild, exotic wine. Huge, soaring aromatics meld into a core of heady, exotically ripe fruit. Not a shy wine by any means, the 2019 is atypically opulent, and yet all of the classic Monte Bello structure is there, underneath all of that fruit. The 2019 needs time in bottle…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Rauzan-Ségla was bottled at the end of May 2019 according to winemaker Nicolas Audebert. It has a broodier nose than expected, perhaps a tad closed after bottling, but there is certainly sufficient blackberry and raspberry fruit, subtle pressed violet, soupçon of shucked oyster shell scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with…