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Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The bouquet was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had…

2024 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Ornellaia captures all the magic of this sensational vintage on the Tuscan Coast. Rich, ample and expansive, with tremendous polish, the 2021 is pure class. Dark-toned fruit, mocha, espresso, licorice, plum and dried herbs abound. The tannins are present but also beautifully integrated, as is the French oak. There was a time not…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Pichon-Baron has developed into a potent wine, even by its own standards. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, grilled herbs, licorice, new leather and spice all flesh out in a succulent Pauillac that shows the racier personality of the year. In the glass, Pichon is dark, racy and sumptuous as it so often is, with…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Pichon-Baron was picked from 18 September with the Merlot, finishing on 3 October with the Cabernet Sauvignon, matured in 80% new oak for 20 months. It has a crisp, precise and tightly wound bouquet, although the aromatics feel a little reticent. Likewise, the tannins are a little conspicuous at this precise moment. They…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 69/31 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 72 IPT; 3.81 pH; 13.7% alcohol) Deep, bright ruby-purple. Classic highly perfumed aromas of blackcurrant, violet, crushed stone and gunflint. Bright, clean and concentrated but currently backward, with densely packed black fruit and mineral flavors displaying a wonderfully precise, penetrating quality. Finishes long and subtle, with an…

Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan (Mar 2021)

The 2010 Château d’Issan has a very intense bouquet with layers of black fruit interlaced with wild hedgerow, touches of iodine and brine that I noticed on the same bottle a couple of years ago. This still requires a couple of years (or 2-3 hours of decanting) before serving. The palate is much more refined…