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New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2008)

Opaque ruby. Sexy boysenberry and cherry-cola on the nose, with spicy mineral and cracked pepper notes adding energy. Juicy and fresh, with vibrant dark berry flavors, silky tannins and very good back-end lift. The tannins gain strength on the finish but don’t obscure the energetic fruit. Very impressive shiraz; supple enough to drink on the…

Santa Cruz Mountains – The Chameleon (Oct 2024)

The 2016 Monte Bello is a masterful expression of this lauded site in the Santa Cruz Mountains. It’s powerful, broad and infinitely layered, but it also possesses an incredibly finessed tannin structure that speaks clearly and forcefully but yields dutifully. Saturated blueberry, gravel, eucalyptus, charcoal, cedar and India ink build gradually and steadily through the…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep ruby-red with purple tinges. Very spicy, complex nose hints at blackcurrant, rose, Christmas cake and raisin, with black pepper and minty fresh herbs providing lift. Then juicy and moderately dense in the mouth, with good energy but modest flesh to the red fruit, mineral and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes very fresh and light on…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2009 Figeac is a gorgeous wine that is really coming into its own. It has quite a precocious bouquet with wild strawberry, blood orange, fig jam, marmalade and gravelly aromas courtesy of the Cabernets. There is real depth on what is quite lush aromatics. The palate is beautifully balanced, very pure with a velvet…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

(a very moderate 13.5% alcohol for the vintage): Red-ruby. Aromas of redcurrant and plum are complicated by gravel, tobacco, wild herbs and cedar. Lush, suave and seamless, with noteworthy energy and a restrained sweetness to the fine-grained flavors of red fruits, tobacco and herbs. Insinuating tobacco and cedar notes perfume the mouth as the wine…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2003 Yquem was a homogenous harvest picked over a single trie between 17 and 26 September. It has a rich and opulent nose, crème brûlée, marmalade and a melted candle wax aroma. The palate has more to offer than the nose: fine acidity, less closed than the aromatics, touches of orange rind and mandarin…