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2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Bright, full red. Raspberry, wild strawberry, minerals and nutty oak on the nose. Fat, sweet and red fruit-driven; more open today than the Charmois. A ripe, full, well-stuffed village wine, finishing with a fine dusting of tannins.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 La Mission Haut-Brion is perhaps a bit of a step down from the First Growths. Black fruit billows from the glass with touches of kelp and black olive compote, gaining complexity with time. The palate is very refined, unusually understated for this estate, harmonious and sensual. Anis hints are present towards the grainy-textured,…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2005)

Dark red. Pungent floral aromas along with suggestions of bitter cherry, chocolate, saddle leather and dried thyme on the nose. A medium-bodied, moderately concentrated Grange with a juicy quality, displaying sappy but dry flavors of cherry, red plum, anise and lavender. The finish begins plump and lingers impressively, but the tannins are slightly dry.

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Petrus was bottled in June 2024. Olivier Berrouet thought the weather conditions could have compromised the wine during the growing season. "You had to be careful to stop the aging process sooner in order to preserve the freshness," he tells me. The 2022 was aged in 50% new oak as is customary, a…

2022 Bordeaux En Primeur: Balance Imbalance (May 2023)

The 2022 Petrus is a complex, vibrant wine that I can only describe as wonderfully alive in the glass. At this stage, the 2022 is distinctly red-toned leaning, with lively floral and citrus accents that lend freshness. Silky tannins give an air of grace to a Petrus that impresses with its total finesse and class….

Ribera del Duero: A Shifting Frontier for Spanish Wine (Nov 2023)

The 2021 Pingus is a 100% Tempranillo sourced from selected four-hectare parcels with clay/lime soils in a vineyard planted in 1929 in La Horra, Ribera del Duero and was aged for 20 months in French oak barrels. Garnet-red in the glass with a purple sheen. The nuanced nose presents subtle but enticing notes of sour…