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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Suduiraut has an attractive bouquet with notes of Mirabelle, jasmine and saffron infusing the upfront honeyed fruit. This is no shy retiring wallflower. The palate is well balanced with a viscous opening, lightly spiced with a pleasant bitter note that lends tension on the finish. Good length, this is a very fine 2010…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has a pure, utterly seductive bouquet of raspberry coulis, wild strawberry, crushed stone and seamlessly integrated new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins – a serious Grand Cru that has closed up in recent months. Foursquare, distant and aloof – but maybe that is what you…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(100% vendange entier): Healthy dark red. Pure but tight aromas of raspberry, spices, rose petal, licorice and herbs. Densely packed and vibrant–impressively so for a 2015–with notes of bitter orange rind and peppery herbs accenting its flavors of red berries, brown spices, menthol, mocha and underbrush. Very savory wine with terrific spicy depth, as well…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru is matured in 60% new oak. It has a finely tuned bouquet with scents of granite filtering through the green apple and pear aromas, and just a little linseed oil in the background. The well-balanced palate displays a fine bead of acidity, good tension from start to finish and a…

The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem (May 2025)

The 1985 Yquem has come my way a few times in recent years, but sadly, it never really impresses. The aromatics come across as one-dimensional compared to others: barley sugar and mandarin, later dried honey. It never really takes off. The palate is balanced yet more bitter than I recall, the finish rather disjointed and…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

Light gold. High-pitched aromas of lemon pith, quince and green apple, with complicating notes of smoky minerals and chamomile. Dry, nervy and very tight, with slow-to-open citrus and orchard fruit flavors and complicating notes of white pepper and buttered toast. Boasts excellent intensity and clarity but shuts down hard on the finish, which features strong…