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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Deep red-ruby. Tight but tangy scents of black fruits, crushed stone, minerals and licorice, plus an exotic suggestion of white stone fruits. Wonderfully sappy, precise and energetic, conveying an impression of density without weight. This silky, refined wine is still a baby but its ripe, granular tannins and finishing juiciness suggest it will be a…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Deep red. Cool, reticent, classic Clos Vougeot scents of black cherry, licorice and herbs are accented by a peppery note. Fairly full and fine-grained but utterly unforthcoming, even impenetrable, in the early going. This very pure but youthfully musclebound wine finishes with hard-edged tannins that will require extended aging. Very difficult to taste, much less…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Palish medium red. Zesty aromas of small red berries and curry powder. Juicy and penetrating in the mouth, conveying a wonderfully light touch to the delicate, detailed flavors of red raspberry, orange zest and exotic spices. Very 2013 in structure: noble more than powerful, but with no shortage of underlying density. Penetrating, energetic wine with…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

(true Charmes): Medium red. Reticent, perfumed scents of red raspberry and rose petal. Denser and sweeter than the Vosne Suchots if not quite as precise and penetrating in the early going. But the wine’s subtle floral quality conveys a strong impression of energy and lift. Serious, firmly tannic grand cru with real class.

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Full medium red. The aromas and flavors of black raspberry, coffee and tropical dark chocolate show an almost liqueur-like ripeness. Rich, layered and deep, showing near-grand cru density, solidity and lift. And yet not at all overly sweet. Outstanding Suchots, finishing with superb length and considerable power. (I recently enjoyed a bottle of the estate’s…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Full medium red. Captivating aromas of redcurrant, spices, iron and tobacco lifted by a note of rose petal. Juicy, spicy and sharply delineated, showing surprising energy if not quite the depth of the Suchots. The red fruit and spice flavors are still quite tightly wound. Finishes with a serious tannic spine and excellent persistence.