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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Margaux is an infant. Today, the tannins are unusually searing, but then again, the 2018 is a wine in which all the elements are dialed up to the maximum. Time in the glass releases the fruit, revealing a luxurious, opulent Château Margaux built for the cellar. Cedar, tobacco, dried flowers and mint develop…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Château Margaux was observed over a period of 24 hours. I used the word "luxurious" to describe the nose when I encountered this First Growth from barrel, and it’s still apt to use now the wine is in bottle. It just blossoms over time, revealing gorgeous blackberry, raspberry, crushed violet and peony, and…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Brion is an infant, but its balance and potential are both amply evident. Rich and deep in the glass, the 2018 opens to reveal tremendous complexity and nuance, qualities that only grow with time. The 2018 is not a huge Haut-Brion, nor is it massively endowed, but it is so elegant and classy….

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Brion was double decanted, assessed after two hours and then over 24 hours, initially blind against La Mission Haut-Brion. There is more red fruit on the nose compared to the La Mission Haut-Brion, wild strawberries commingling with raspberry, light tobacco scents and shavings of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Mouton Rothschild is a rich, shockingly flamboyant wine endowed with tremendous fruit density and a level of unctuousness that could be taken for a wine still in barrel. Marvelously open and fleshy, the 2018 is utterly breathtaking today. I imagine it will shut down at some point, but today it is all seduction…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Mouton-Rothschild needed 2–3 hours before I began composing a single word. Eventually it unfolds with the same aromatics that I observed out of barrel: extraordinarily pure blackberry, blueberry, pressed violet petals and potpourri. It still has the alluring Margaux-like florality. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, disarmingly satin-like texture and wonderful cohesion….