Archives: Product Reviews

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Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1975 Croft Vintage Port is pale tawny in colour. The nose is fully mature, rather one-dimensional with touches of wild strawberry, honey and cigar box. It is certainly missing some vigour. The palate is medium-bodied, well balanced but lacking sophistication and depth. A touch of white pepper, raisin and cherry towards the finish, this…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright ruby-red. Complex, expressive nose combines red fruits, violet, licorice and chocolate, all lifted by very intense floral notes. Lush and spicy in the mouth, with raspberry and chocolatey plum flavors complicated by a hint of fresh citrus fruits. Finishes with lush tannins and a lingering floral element. Fairly large-scaled, almost chunky, but this seems…

Rhônes on the Rise: Washington State Takes the Lead (Aug 2023)

The 2020 Syrah Cailloux Vineyard is born of the earth, dusty and savory, with a burst of crushed rock and gravel giving way to air-dried meat and smoky olive tones. This is surprisingly energetic and spry, with a salty flourish and ripe red and black fruits. The zesty acidity provides an unbelievably juicy sensation. It…

Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)

The 1985 Ausone is, to borrow the verbiage of Mr. Parker, a major disappointment. I cannot think of a vintage where potential and actual quality are so at odds. It has an odd and malodorous peppermint, boiled sweet, cabbage-scented nose. The palate is medium-bodied with brown sugar and something cloying sweet that jars against what…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1999 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have found perplexing in the past, and the last time I was unable to give a score. Returning again, I find the nose a little diluted with light black fruit, a touch of brine and sea salt, but oddly it reminds me of the 2013. The palate…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium red. Aromas of black cherry, minerals and graphite. Sweet and harmonious, with impressive vivacity and purity of flavor for ’99. Strong mineral and graphite notes contribute complexity. Not overly fleshy but fresh and sharply delineated, with excellent intensity. A very sophisticated wine, showing well today.