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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Lions de Suduiraut is an attractive second wine. Orange confit, burnt sugar, dried rose petal, hazelnut, spice, coffee and licorice are signs of a wine that is already heading towards maturity. The 2018 will offer fine drinking over the next few years, although I would not push my luck on aging, as this…

Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)

A collection of stunning older northern Rhônes puts a strong exclamation point on this night of fabulous food, wine and conversation. The 1978 La Chapelle from Jaboulet is full of deep, woodsy aromas and flavors. Still, deep, rich and positively explosive in the glass, the 1978 is a real treat to taste and drink. The…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Mouton Rothschild clearly has a fresher bouquet than the Clerc Milon or Armailhac: copious black fruit, cedar, graphite and violet scents soar from the glass, entrancing with beautiful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, quite poised and less ferrous than some of its peers. Mint and veins of dark chocolate are…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Mouton Rothschild clearly has a fresher bouquet than the Clerc Milon or Armailhac: copious black fruit, cedar, graphite and violet scents soar from the glass, entrancing with beautiful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, quite poised and less ferrous than some of its peers. Mint and veins of dark chocolate are…

The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem (May 2025)

This might be the best bottle of 1995 Yquem that I have encountered. This bottle is perhaps slightly less deep in colour than the one tasted three years earlier. The bouquet is divine: marmalade, orane pith, tangerine, saffron and here, the lightest of adhesive notes. Wonderful delineation. The palate is very complex and exquisitely defined,…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1995 Mouton Rothschild was tasted from ex-château bottles, and I had not tasted this vintage for a number of years. This puts in a very good performance given that it was not an auspicious decade for the First Growth. A mélange of red and black fruit gradually gives way to cassis on the nose,…