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Making the Case for New Zealand Reds (Mar 2021)

You’ll need deep pockets for this but you’ll be rewarded: it is a deeply satisfying, rich yet elegant Syrah, opulently aromatic with abundant layers, from the deep, brooding spices, white pepper, smoky bacon and cloves to the pretty violets and blackberry fruits. Low yields are reflected in the dense concentration of fruit but it retains…

Loire Cabernet Franc: Who Do You Think You Are? (Aug 2022)

Limestone, clay and ripe, cooked raspberry with a hint of spice. At first it has an open structure but then concludes relatively firm and tannic for a Roches Neuves. Combines with a line of fresh acidity making for a taut conclusion.

Santa Cruz Mountains: The Compelling 2018s & 2019s (May 2022)

The 2019 Geyserville marks a pretty huge step up in this range. What a wine! Black cherry, plum, chocolate, cloves, menthol and licorice blast across the palate. Deep and saturated, with tremendous concentration, the 2019 Geyserville is a wine to cellar for at least a few years. Today, it is positively stunning.

Santa Cruz Mountains: The Compelling 2018s & 2019s (May 2022)

The 2019 Geyserville marks a pretty huge step up in this range. What a wine! Black cherry, plum, chocolate, cloves, menthol and licorice blast across the palate. Deep and saturated, with tremendous concentration, the 2019 Geyserville is a wine to cellar for at least a few years. Today, it is positively stunning.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

My feeling about the 2018 Réserve de la Comtesse is pretty much the same as it was when I first tasted it en primeur. It is an attractive, gracious wine with plenty of immediacy and appeal, but not the depth of some previous editions. I imagine that mostly reflects the significant presence of young vine…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Réserve de Pichon Comtesse has undergone a discreet change of name since the 2017 vintage. What has not changed is that it’s a knockout Second Label. It ladles out gorgeous scents of blackberry mixed with iodine and violets, just as it did from barrel. The palate is quite rich and generous, with saturated,…