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Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1991 Climens is a very credible wine for the vintage (like Doisy-Daëne). Touches of white mushroom on the nose alongside quince and background petrol-like aromas, it opens nicely in the glass though it never musters much in the way of vigour. The palate is well balanced with fresh tangerine and Clementine notes, moderate length,…

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2017 Barolo Liste is the most potent and brooding wine in this range. Iron, smoke, gravel, dried herbs, menthol and licorice add to an impression of gravitas. Huge tannins envelop the muscular finish.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Talbot has a delectable bouquet with well-defined red berry fruit, mocha, tea leaves and bay leaf. This is Saint-Julien through and through. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, red berry fruit, Christmas cake and a dash of white pepper. With gentle grip and a persistent finish that lingers in the mouth, this…

The Pfalz – Not False – Promise of 2018 (Mar 2021)

To a yet more striking extent than with this year’s village-level Kabinett trocken (which was bottled in May 2019), this late August bottling from the Saumagen marries schmaltz and apparent glycerol-richness with alcoholic levity (at barely 12%). Sweet corn, apple and quince are complemented by piquant nuttiness, while high-toned hints of sour mash and apple…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(est. 900-$1,250) Good bright, deep red. Wonderfully perfumed, nuanced nose offers raspberry, smoke, earth, white truffle and this vineyard’s typical cocktail of Oriental spices. Compellingly silky-sweet and suave on the palate, with great aromatic lift to the red fruit, spice and mineral flavors. This offers a rare combination of high and low tones on the…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2006 Salon (Edition 2019) shows a decidedly tropical, exotic profile that is unusual for Salon. Passion fruit, mango, apricot jam and wild floral notes race across the palate as this sumptuous, radiant Salon shows off its alluring personality. Vinous, textured and flamboyantly ripe, the 2006 is one of the most hedonistic Salons in recent…