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Chablis 2022-2023: Here Comes the Sun King (Aug 2024)

The 2023 Chablis Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire comes from 50-60 year old vines. Clearly a level up from the regular cuvée. This displays more mineralité and nuance on the nose with hints of white truffle. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity, quite tensile with pleasing weight. Very harmonious on…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 De Fonbel is bright, punchy and bursting with fruit. Sweet floral accents lift a core of red berry fruit in a soft, caressing Saint-Émilion that will drink well pretty much right out of the gate. The 2020 is an absolute delight. I imagine this charming, mid-weight Saint-Émilion will drink well for another 10-15…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Château de Fonbel has a pretty, if light and approachable, bouquet with brambly red fruit intermixed with blackcurrant and soft floral touches. It doesn’t want to make too much of a fuss. The palate is medium-bodied with gritty tannins on the entry, a little compact at the moment yet fresh with fine salinity…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Château de Fonbel was picked 14-20 September for the Merlot and on 28 September for the Cabernet Franc (there is even 7% Carmenère picked on 1 October), matured in 30% new oak. It has a vivid black cherry and wild strawberry bouquet laced with iris petal. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Château de Fonbel has a light and airy bouquet of blackberry, bilberry, cedar and cigar box scents. The palate is medium-bodied with scrawny tannins and balsamic-tinged black fruit, leading to a rather monotonous finish. This is a disappointing showing, which could be due to the bottle. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Batailley has plenty of fruit on the nose: blackberry, raspberry, a touch of shoe leather and sage. The palate is medium-bodied with a slight bitterness on the entry, nicely balanced though, cedar and tobacco infusing the black fruit with a touch more fruit on the finish compared to Haut-Batailley. It just needs more…